Sunday, July 21, 2019
Identity in clothing
Identity in clothing THE CREATION OF IDENTITY THROUGH CLOTHING The work of Alison Lurie (Lurie, 1983) ââ¬Å"The Language of Clothesâ⬠and Didier Gondolaââ¬â¢s (Gondola, 2010) ââ¬Å"La Sape Exposed! High Fashion among Lower-Class Congolese Youthâ⬠will be discussed in order to examine the concept of creating an identity through fashion. The first idea of discussion is Lurieââ¬â¢s concept (Lurie, 1983: 6) ââ¬Å"Colour and Conformityâ⬠. Secondly Gondolaââ¬â¢s comments on the Sapeurs. The third paragraph, applying the Lurie concept of Colour and Conformity to the Sapeurs and lastly the Colour and Conformity of Lurie, applied to the Smarteez. Lurie states (Lurie, 1983: 1) ââ¬Å"Today, as semiotics become fashionable, sociologists tell us that fashion too is a language of signs, a nonverbal system of communicationâ⬠. In Gondola and Corrigallââ¬â¢s articles, they discuss the way the sub-culture groups, Sapeurs and Smarteez used extravagant, colourful fashion to rise above their challenged, impoverished circumstances to create a flamboyant identity. Lurieââ¬â¢s (1983) article ââ¬Å"The Language of Clothesâ⬠argues that wearing clothes is a form of language interpreted by all. Lurie states (Lurie, 1983:1) ââ¬Å"â⬠¦human beings have communicated with one another first in the language of dressâ⬠¦Ã¢â¬ In the section ââ¬Å"Colour and conformityâ⬠Lurie mentions that psychologists discovered, looking at different colours may alternate our vital signs and emotions (Lurie, 1983: 1). Lurie justifies this by claiming that when someone is approached, the first thing that occupies the visual field is the colour of clothing having a great effect on the nervous system. (Lurie, 1983:2) ââ¬Å"Loud, clashing colours, like loud noises [â⬠¦] may actually hurt our eyes or give us a headacheâ⬠¦Ã¢â¬ . This implies that (Lurie, 1983:2) ââ¬Å"Colour in dress is also like tone of voice in speechâ⬠¦Ã¢â¬ . A white evening dress communicates a different message than a scarlet one. (Lurie, 1983:2) According to Lu rie (Lurie, 1983:3) ââ¬Å"Convention alters the meaning of colours according to the place and time at which they are worn.â⬠The corporate environment requires conventional dress code to communicate status, but the same people would wear colourful eveningwear, suggesting that not dressing in the recognized range of colour for given situations, attracts unfavorable attention. To the Sapeurs, making an immediate impact with their colourful clothing was of greater importance than the attention they received. In his article ââ¬Å"La Sape Exposed! High Fashion Among Lower-Class Congolese Youthâ⬠(Gondola, 2010: 157) Gondola comments on the Sapeurs, the oppression faced and the new identity created in response to that. French colonialism brought to Africa, a mission to civilize the people. Gondola states (Gondola, 2010: 158) ââ¬Å"â⬠¦their mission civilisatrice was predicated on redeeming [â⬠¦] ââ¬Å"primitive mindsâ⬠[â⬠¦] ââ¬Å"primitive bodiesâ⬠of the ââ¬Å"naked peopleâ⬠. During the 1920s, the word sape(dress) and se saper (to dress fashionably) was used to describe the fashion energy that characterized Parisian socialites. (Gondola, 2010: 158) They influenced the young Sapeurs to dress fashionably, even over dress. Gondola comments (Gondola, 2010: 160) ââ¬Å"â⬠¦Congolese houseboys spurned their masters secondhand clothes [â⬠¦] spending their meager wages extravagantly to acquire the latest fashions from Parisâ⬠. After independence of t he Congoââ¬â¢s in 1960, young Congolese flocked to Europe, because of economic chaos. Their dreams of a new life hindered by discrimination. Gondola argues (Gondola, 2010: 165) ââ¬Å"â⬠¦la sape became a refuge that enabled them to forge new identities away from homeâ⬠¦Ã¢â¬ Gondolaââ¬â¢s writing highlights that the sapeurs overcame their struggles by allowing fashion to be the essence of their identity through the use of vibrant suits. (Obv.org.uk, 2015) ââ¬Å"Within this society, men are encouraged to have their own sense of style, bringing an individualised definition of sophistication and elegance that suits each character and enriches the group as a wholeâ⬠. This image of the Sapeurs is an example of Gondalaââ¬â¢s comment (Gondola, 2010: 158) ââ¬Å"One could easily spot them strolling down the boulevards [â⬠¦] in expensive and flamboyant attireâ⬠. Combining a maximum of three colours was their idea of perfection. (Michalon, 2015) ââ¬Å"The ways of Sapeology are impenetrable for any Sapeologist who does not know the rule of 3: a trilogy of finished and unfinished coloursâ⬠. They had to know the rules of elegance, which implied matching colours harmoniusly without being excessive. (Gondola, 2010) The loud and striking message the Sapeurs portray in this image does not have a negative effect, as Lurie implies (Lurie, 1983: 2) because of their stylish matching of colours. Like the Sapeurs o vercame their obstacles through their fashion identity, the Smarteez also formed an identity through their excessive colourful attire. In her article ââ¬Å"AGAINST THE MACHINE: THE ââ¬ËSMARTEEZââ¬â¢ FASHION A NEW POST-APARTHEID IDENTITYâ⬠Mary Corrigall writes about the Smarteez (Corrigall, 2011: 2) ââ¬Å"a youth-driven street fashion sub-cultureâ⬠. The image of the group above reflects their striking outfits. (Corrigall, 2011: 2) ââ¬Å"The Smarteez outfits are garish and excessively colourful and thus immediately recognisable as in the vein of dandyism in which the subjects appear like costumed objectsâ⬠. Lurie argues (Lurie, 1983: 4) ââ¬Å" some people may avoid colours they like because of the belief [â⬠¦] that they are unbecoming, while others may wear colours they dislike for symbolic reasonsâ⬠. The defining feature of the Smarteez was combining primary colours in their outfits, referring to their name,ââ¬Å" a bright sugar-coated chocolate confectionâ⬠. (Corrigall, 2011: 3) The name smart refers to their formal wear and intellectual acuity. (Corrigall, 2011: 3) ââ¬Å"â ⬠¦the Smarteez attire is a parody of the middle class valuesâ⬠. According to Lurie (Lurie, 1983: 1) ââ¬Å"â⬠¦dress is a continual manifestation of intimate thoughts, a language and a symbol.â⬠Rejecting those who did not wear brightly coloured clothes. Therefore they set out to create their own unique identity. The aim of this essay was to assess Lurieââ¬â¢s (1983) ââ¬Å"The Language of Clothesâ⬠, specifically her discussion of ââ¬Å"Colour and Conformityâ⬠and Didier Gondolaââ¬â¢s (Gondola, 2010) ââ¬Å"La Sape Exposed! [â⬠¦] Congolese Youthâ⬠by examining the concept of creating identity through fashion. Lurie comments on clothing as a language that communicates. Using colour attracts favorable or unfavorable attention. The Sapeurs created an accomplished and wealthy identity through colourful clothing, their flamboyance making immediate impact. The Smarteez valued their brightly coloured clothing to the extent of rejecting those that did not conform. Therefore these subcultural groups rose above their struggles by creating new identities through fashion. Bibliography Gondola, D. (2010) La Sape Exposed! High Fashion among Lower-Class Congolese Youth. Gott, S.L.K. (ed.) Contemporary African Fashion, 1st edition, Bloomington: Indiana University Press. Lurie, A. (1983) The Language of clothes, Random House Inc. Leroux, D. (2014) Forget the hipster fashion, preppy, preppy golden swag. Nothing compares to the Fire of Congo, 11 Nov, [Online], Available: http://www.tonbarbier.com/2014/11/11/oubliez-la-mode-hipster-preppy-bcbg-ou-le-swag-rien-nest-comparable-aux-sapeurs-du-congo [24 May 2015]. Edsuter (2015) The Smarteez | Ed Suter, [Online], Available: http://edsuter.com/my-work/the-smarteez/ [24 May 2015]. Obv.org.uk (2015) Sapeurs: The creativity of African fashionistas | OBV, [Online], Available: http://www.obv.org.uk/news-blogs/sapeurs-creativity-african-fashionistas [24 May 2015]. Michalon, N. (2015) Sussing out La Sape: fashion, science or religion? Clique.tv, 07 Apr, [Online], Available: http://www.clique.tv/en/enquete-sur-la-sape-mode-science-ou-religion/ [24 May 2015]. Corrigall, M. (2011) Against the Machine: The Smarteez Fashion a new post-apartheid identity, Fashion Conference, Oxford, 1-4. 1
Chemical composition of Ambrette Essential Oil
Chemical composition of Ambrette Essential Oil Chemical composition of the essential oil of ambrette (Abelmoschus moschatus Medik.) from subtropical region of north India Ram S. Verma*, Rajendra C. Padalia, Amit Chauhan ABSTRACT Abelmoschus moschatus (Family: Malvaceae), popularly known as ambrette or muskdana, is an important aromatic and medicinal plant of India. The plant is widely cultivated in tropical countries for their musk-scented seeds useful in perfumery and medicine. In this study, hydrodistilled ambrette seed essential oil produced in subtropical region of north India was investigated using gas chromatography-flame ionization detector (GC-FID) and GC-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). A total of 27 constituents, representing 90.4% of the total oil composition were identified. Major constituents of the oil were (2E,6E)-farnesyl acetate (58.0%), (Z)-oxacycloheptadec-8-en-2-one (12.1%), decyl acetate (4.8%), (2Z,6E)-farnesyl acetate (3.5%), (Z)-oxacyclopentadec-6-en-2-one (2.4%), dodecyl acetate (2.4%) and (2E,6Z)-farnesol (2.0%). Ambrettolide and its homologues, responsible for the characteristic musk-like odour, constitute 15.8% of oil composition. Keywords: Abelmoschus moschatus, Malvaceae, ambrette seed, essential oil, (2E,6E)-farnesyl acetate 1. Introduction Abelmoschus moschatus Medik. (syn. Hibiscus abelmoschus (L.), commonly known as ambrette, is native to India (1). It is cultivated in tropical regions of Asia, Africa and South America for their seeds. The seeds have been used as tonic, stimulant, carminative, diuretic, demulcent, and for stomachic property (2). The essential oil obtained by steam-distillation of ambrette seeds is a valuable material known for a rich, sweet, floral-musky, distinctly wine-like or brandy-like odor, which finds application in flavour and fragrance formulations (3). Moreover, the seed essential oil is used as anti-inflammatory, analgesic and antispasmodic drug. It is indicated against cramps and bowel disorders and also useful in the itching caused by insect bites. The leaves and the fruits of the plant are consumed in soups and the seeds are used as a spice (4). In addition to this, A. moschatus shows good antioxidant, antiproliferative and antimicrobial activities (5). The plant has been classified as ââ¬Å"an herb of undefined safetyâ⬠by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and the extracts are classified as generally recognized as safe (GRAS) for their use in baked foods, candies, and alcoholic beverages (6). The chemical composition of essential oil and extracts of ambrette seed have been reported from different countries (7-16). The ambrette seed oil has a much smoother odor than synthetic musk compounds, and the major compounds responsible for the characteristic musky odor include ambrettolide: (Z)-7-hexadecen-16-olide and (Z)-5-tetradecen-14-olide (17). Despite a long history of uses in traditional medicines and in perfumery, information on A. moschatus from subtropical region of India is meager. Therefore, in this study, volatile oil composition of the ambrette seed grown in north India (subtropical condition) has been investigated. 2. Experimental 2.1. Plant material and isolation of essential oil The ambrette seeds were collected from experimental field of CSIR-Central Institute of Medicinal and Aromatic Plants, Research Centre, Pantnagar (Uttarakhand) in the month of December (2009ââ¬â2011). The experimental site is located between coordinates 29.02à °N, 79.31à °E and an altitude of 243 m in foothills of north India. Isolation of the essential oil from ambrette seeds was carried out by hydrodistillation in a Clevengerââ¬â¢s type apparatus for 5 hours. Isolated oil was dried over anhydrous Na2SO4 and stored at 4à °C until further analyses. 2.2. GC and GC-MS analyses GC analysis of the essential oil was carried out on a Nucon gas chromatograph model 5765 equipped with DB-5 capillary column (30 m Ãâ" 0.25 mm internal diameter, film thickness 0.25 à µm) and flame ionization detector (FID). The oven column temperature ranged from 60ââ¬â230 à °C, programmed at 3 à °C/min, using H2 as carrier gas at 1.0 mL/min, a split ratio of 1:35, an injection size of 0.03 à µL neat, and injector and detector temperatures were 220 à °C and 230 à °C, respectively for Nucon gas chromatograph model 5765. GC/MS analysis of the essential oil sample was carried out on a Clarus 680 GC interfaced with a Clarus SQ 8C mass spectrometer of PerkinElmer fitted with Elite-5 MS fused-silica capillary column (30 m Ãâ" 0.25 mm i.d., film thickness 0.25 à µm). The oven temperature program was from 60ââ¬â240 à °C, at 3 à °C/min, and programmed to 270 à °C at 5 à °C /min; injector temperature was 250 à °C; transfer line and source temperatures were 220 à °C; i njection size 0.03 à µL neat; split ratio 1:50; carrier gas He at 1.0 mL/min; ionization energy 70 eV; mass scan range 40-450 amu. Characterization was achieved on the basis of retention index (RI, determined using a homologous series of n-alkanes, C8-C30 hydrocarbons), mass spectra library search (NIST/EPA/NIH version 2.1 and Wiley registry of mass spectral data 7th edition) and by comparing the observed RI and mass spectral data with the literature (18,19). The relative amounts of individual components were calculated based on the relative % peak areas (FID response), without using a correction factor. 2.3. Statistical analysis To compare of the examined essential oil composition of ambrette seed from subtropics with the reported compositions from other regions, seven samples (1: present study and 2-7: other regions) (8,9,11,13,14) were treated as operational taxonomic units. The percentage of nine major components, representing composition up to 82.8-89.0% of ambrette essential oil (decyl acetate, dodecyl acetate, (E)-à ²-farnesene, (Z)-oxacyclopentadec-6-en-2-one, (2Z,6E)-farnesyl acetate, (2E,6E)-farnesyl acetate, (2E,6E)-farnesol, (Z)-oxacycloheptadec-8-en-2-one, and (E)-2,3-dihydrofarnesyl acetate) were used to determine the chemical relationship among the different essential oil samples by hierarchical cluster analysis using the average method (20). This software computes the hierarchical clustering of a multivariate dataset based on dissimilarities. The derived dendrogram depicts the grouping of chemical compositions as per their chemical constituents. 3. Results and discussion The essential oil yield and chemical composition of ambrette seeds observed in subtropics, north India is presented in Table 1. The seeds gave 0.12 à ± 0.01% (v/w) of essential oil on hydrodistillation. However, essential oil yield was 0.15ââ¬â0.20% in ambrette seeds under eastern Indian conditions (12). The resulting essential oil was analysed using GC-FID and GC-MS techniques. Altogether, 27 constituents, representing 90.4% of the total oil composition were identified. Major constituents of the oil were (2E,6E)-farnesyl acetate (58.0%), (Z)-oxacycloheptadec-8-en-2-one (12.1%), decyl acetate (4.8%), (2Z,6E)-farnesyl acetate (3.5%), (Z)-oxacyclopentadec-6-en-2-one (2.4%), dodecyl acetate (2.4%), (2E,6Z)-farnesol (2.0%), (Z)-oxacyclononadec-10-en-2-one (1.3%) and (E)-nerolidol (0.7%). The essential oil composition of ambrette seed has been investigated earlier from different countries and mainly five types of compositions are described. Garnero and Buil (1978) identified (2E,6E)-farnesol (39.0%) and (E,E)-farnesyl acetate (35.4%) as the major constituents of ambrette seed oil (13). Dung et al (1999) reported two different compositions, viz. (E)-2,3-dihydrofarnesyl acetate (67.3%) type, and (E,E)-farnesyl acetate (35.5%) and (E)-2,3-dihydrofarnesyl acetate (32.9%) type for ambrette seed oil from Vietnamese (14). However, ambrette seed oils from Ecuador and China are reported to have (E,E)-farnesyl acetate (59.1% and 64.22%) and (Z)-oxacycloheptadec-8-en-2-one (7.8% and 14.9%) as major constituents (8,9). According to an earlier study from Odisha (eastern India), the main constituents of ambrette seed oil were (E,E)-farnesyl acetate (47.6%), (E)-à ²-farnesene (9.6%) and (Z)-oxacycloheptadec-8-en-2-one (9.0%) (11). Moreover, to compare the examined essential oil com position with earlier reported compositions, the contents (%) of nine major components of different oils were subjected to the hierarchical cluster analysis. The derived dendrogram clearly demonstrate dissimilarity based on the percentages of the constituents present among the different compositions (Figure 1). Thus, composition of the examined oil from subtropical northern India was closer to the oil composition reported from Ecuador (8). However, it was rather different from China (9) and eastern Indian (11) ambrette seed oils due to the content (%) of other constituents, viz. (E)-à ²-farnesene and decyl acetate. 4. Conclusions In conclusions, the chemical composition of ambrette seed oil produced in subtropics was rich in (E,E)-farnesyl acetate (58.0%), and ambrettolide and its homologues (15.8%). The ambrette seed oil has a promising value for fragrance and fixative purposes. Based on the results of this study, it can be said that ambrette can also produced good quality essential oil in the subtropical conditions of north India. Acknowledgements Council of Scientific and Industrial Research (CSIR), New Delhi is thankfully acknowledged for the financial support to carrying out the work (Project: BSC0203). Authors are also thankful to the Director, CSIR-Central Institute of Medicinal and Aromatic Plants for encouragement and the Central Chemical Facility (CSIR-CIMAP) for providing facility for GC and GC/MS analyses. References Anonymous, The wealth of India: Raw materials; National Institute of Science Communication, Council of Scientific and Industrial Research: New Delhi, Vol. 5, pp 75-77 (1959). R. Sharma and A. Shahzad, Thidiazuran (TDZ) induced regeneration from cotyledonary node explant of Abelmoschus moschatus Medik. L. (A valuable medicinal plant). World J. Agric. Sci., 4(4), 449-452 (2008). S. Arctander, Perfume and flavor materials of natural origin; Arctander: Elizabeth, NJ, pp 58-60 (1960). De La Ripelle, H. F. (2006). Les hiscus, tradition et modernite. Phytotherapie, 3,136ââ¬â144. M.Z. Gul, L.M. Bhakshu, F. Ahmad, A.K. Kondapi, I.A. Qureshi and I.A. Ghazi, Evaluation of Abelmoschus moschatus extracts for antioxidant, free radical scavenging, antimicrobial and antiproliferative activities using in vitro assays. BMC Complement. Altern. Med., 11(64), 1-12 (2011). J.A. Duke, Handbook of Medicinal Herbs. CRC Press, Boca Raton Florida (1985). J.P. Buil, R. Laurent, J.P. Fournol, D. Joulain and P.Y. Hardy, Composition chimique de lhuile essentielle de graine dambrette. Parfums Cosmetiques Aromes, 10, 95-96 (1989). L. Cravo, F. Perineau, A. Gaset and J.M. Bessiere, Study of the chemical composition of the essential oil, oleoresin and its volatile product obtained from Ambrette (A. moschatus Moench) Seeds. Flav. Fragr. J., 7, 65-67 (1992). Y.J. Tang, T.S. Zhou, J.K. Ding and H.D. Sun, The chemical constituents of the essential oil from Ambrette seeds. Acta Bot. Yunnan, 12(1), 113-114 (1990). D.K. Mishra and S.N. Naik, Cultivation and processing of Abelmoschus moschatus. J. Med. Arom. Plant Sci., 22, 624-628 (2000). P.K. Rout, Y.R. Rao, K.S. Jena, D. Sahoo and B.C. Mishra, Extraction and composition of essential oil of ambrette (Abelmoschus moschatus) seeds. J. Essent. Oil Res., 16, 35-37 (2004). P. K. Rout, K. C. Barik, K. S. Jena, D.Sahoo, and Y. R. Rao. 2002. A novel process for the extraction of fragrance components from ambrette (Hibiscus abelmoschus L.) seeds. Organic Process Research Development 2002, 6, 401-404. J. Garnero and P. Buil, Contribution a letude de la composition cbimique de lbuile essentielle concrete de graines d ambrette. Rivista Ital. EPPOS, 60, 606-612 (1978). N.X. Dung, P.V. Khien, D.D. Nhuan, T.M. Hoi, N.K. Ban, P.A. Leclercq, A. Muselli, A. Bighelli and J. Casanova, Composition of the seed oil of Hibiscus abelmoschus L. (Malvaceae) growing in Vietnam. J. Essent. Oil Res., 11(4), 447-452 (1999). T. Bernard, F. Perineau, R. Bravo, M. Delmas and A. Gaset, Extraction des builes essentielles Etude de faisabilite conduite sur lââ¬â¢ambrette. Parfums. Cosmet. Aromes, 84, 77-84 (1988). Molfetta I, Ceccarini L, Macchia M, Flamini G, Cioni PL. 2013. Abelmoschus esculentus (L.) Moench. and Abelmoschus moschatus Medik: Seeds production and analysis of the volatile compounds. Food Chemistry 141, 34ââ¬â40. B. Maurer and A. Grieder, (Z)-5-tetradecen-14-olide, a new macrocyclic lactone, and two unsaturated straight chain acetates from ambrette seed absolute. Helv. Chim. Acta, 60, 1155-1160 (1977). R.P. Adams, Identification of essential oil components by gas chromatography /mass spectrometry. Allured Publishing Corp., Carol Stream, Illinois, USA (2007). http://www.pherobase.com/database/kovats/kovats-detail-Z5-12Ac.php Wessa, P. (2013). Hierarchical clustering (v1.0.3) in free statistics software (v1.1.23-r7), office for research development and education. URL: http://www.wessa.net/ Table 1: Chemical composition of ambrette (Abelmoschus moschatus Medik.) seed essential oil from north India S. no. Compounda RIb RIc Content (%)d S. no. Compounda RIb RIc Content (%)d 1 à ±-Pinene 933 932 0.1 à ± 0.09 15 Decyl propanoate 1502 1501 0.2 à ± 0.06 2 à ²-Pinene 972 974 t 16 (E)-Nerolidol 1560 1562 0.7 à ± 0.06 3 6-Methyl-5-hepten-2-one 978 981 0.1 à ± 0.04 17 (Z)-5-Dodecenyl acetate 1588 1592* 0.5 à ± 0.06 4 à ±-Terpinene 1014 1014 t 18 Dodecyl acetate 1609 1607 2.4 à ± 0.25 5 p-Cymene 1022 1020 0.2 à ± 0.25 19 (2Z,6Z)-Farnesol 1696 1698 0.1 à ± 0.00 6 Limonene 1026 1024 0.2 à ± 0.16 20 (2E,6Z)-Farnesol 1713 1714 2.0 à ± 0.93 7 1,8-Cineole 1028 1026 0.2 à ± 0.21 21 (Z)-Oxacyclopentadec-6-en-2-oneâ⬠1719 2.4 à ± 2.43 8 Linalool 1100 1095 0.4 à ± 0.46 22 (2Z,6E)-Farnesyl acetate 1822 1821 3.5 à ± 1.15 9 Camphor 1146 1141 t 23 (2E,6E)-Farnesyl acetate 1850 1845 58.0 à ± 3.13 10 n-Decanol 1270 1266 0.3 à ± 0.35 24 (2E,6E)-Farnesyl propanoate 1919 0.4 à ± 0.17 11 Undecanal 1304 1305 t 25 (Z)-Oxacycloheptadec-8-en-2-one â⬠â⬠1928 1929 12.1 à ± 4.88 12 Decyl acetate 1407 1407 4.8 à ± 0.90 26 (Z)-Oxacyclononadec-10-en-2-one 2128 1.3 à ± 0.79 13 (E)-à ²-Farnesene 1458 1454 0.2 à ± 0.33 27 Linoleic acid 2129 2132 t 14 10-Undecenol acetate 1499 1498 0.1 à ± 0.10 Total identified (%) 90.4 à ± 6.25 aMode of identification: retention index (RI), mass spectral data (GCââ¬âMS); RIb: Experimental Retention Index (relative to n-alkane); RIc: Retention Index from literature (18); dMean (à ± standard deviation) of three samples; â⬠also known as (Z)-5-tetradecen-14-olide; â⬠â⬠also known as (Z)-7-hexadecen-16-olide (= musk ambrette); *KI: Kovat Index (19). Figure 1: Hierarchical cluster analysis of the essential oil compositions of ambrette (Abelmoschus moschatus Medik.) seed. 1: present study [(2E,6E)-farnesyl acetate (58.0%), (Z)-oxacycloheptadec-8-en-2-one (12.1%)]; 2: [(2E,6E)-farnesol (39.0%), (2E,6E)-farnesyl acetate (35.4%)] (Garnero and Buil, 1978); 3: China [(2E,6E)-farnesyl acetate (64.22%), (Z)-oxacycloheptadec-8-en-2-one (14.96%)] (Tang et al., 1990); 4: Ecuador [(2E,6E)-farnesyl acetate (59.1%), (Z)-oxacycloheptadec-8-en-2-one (7.8%)] (Cravo et al., 1992); 5: Vietnam [(E)-2,3-dihydrofarnesyl acetate (67.3%), (2E,6E)-farnesyl acetate (14.9%)] (Dung et al., 1999); 6: Vietnam [(2E,6E)-farnesyl acetate (35.5%), (E)-2,3-dihydrofarnesyl acetate (32.9%)] (Dung et al., 1999); 7: Eastern India [(2E,6E)-farnesyl acetate (47.6%), (E)-à ²-farnesene (9.6%)] (Rout et al., 2004). 1
Saturday, July 20, 2019
The Importance of Language in Clare Rossiniââ¬â¢s Final Love Note and Louis
The Importance of Language in Clare Rossiniââ¬â¢s Final Love Note and Louise Gluckââ¬â¢s Mock Orange Love is such an abstract concept for the human mind to figure out. Along with the love of a mother for her child, there are many types of sensual love or brotherly love; friendship is frequently described as a type of love, as well. This abstraction can also be distorted and made to fit into categories that would normally be associated with negativity and abuse not "love." Think of why a woman will continually go back to an abusive spouse with the irrational reason that "he loves me." If he loved you, he wouldn't beat youâ⬠¦Would he? In a poem, the confusion seems only to extend, as writers will describe a beautiful event that is tainted by a bad experience or emotion. In this manner, word choice plays a primary role in determining the actual meaning of the poem. Clare Rossini, in her poem entitled "Final Love Note" and Louise Gluck, in her poem "Mock Orange," both use carefully chosen language to portray different aspects of the concept that we, in individual and often irrationa l ways, use to explain "love." These particular writers use words of love and hate to explain extremely passionate feelings toward their personal relationships-and nature, an elm tree, and a Mock Orange bush, to be exact. Clare Rossini's ", Final Love Note," reflects a depth of emotion that, on the surface, is directed towards an elm tree that has died and must be cut down. She opens the poem describing an intensely intimate state in a relationship, and it is her word choice that reflects deeper into her love, than merely sadness due to the loss of a tree. "For months we've been together, hardly wanton,/ never touching. Yet your shade commingled/ with my clot... ...n the world?" (lines 21-24). Although Gluck and Rossini write of separate experiences and emotions related to both love and plants, their word choice is what keys the reader in to their meaning. By evaluating the language usage of a poet, a reader comes to appreciate the careful planning and preparation that goes into each poem of value. These writers know each of the meanings and definitions of the words that they chose, and as we have seen with Gluck, and especially Rossini, that choice has a great impact on how a reader will relate to the poems. With such abstract concepts as love and intimacy, it is the word usage that a writer must rely upon to convey the appropriate message. Sources Cited Gluck, Louise. Mock Orange Available at http://www.geocities.com/bjlandry_00/Otherwriters/gluckmockorange.html Rossini, Clare. Final Love Note Class Handout
Friday, July 19, 2019
The Global Fund :: Health, Diseases, HIV/AIDS
The threaded discussions have demonstrated that communicable diseases are the leading causes of illness, deaths, and disability in the African continent. In this regard, the economic costs in terms of prevention, treatment, and loss of productivity are undeniably enormous. Most, if not all of the human and financial resources allocated to Africa have focused on disease-specific intervention programs, such as prevention or treatment of malaria, tuberculosis and HIV/AIDS. Yellow fever, like malaria, is transmitted by mosquitoes and share similar symptoms. Although both diseases are preventable, there is a vaccine available for yellow fever. The yellow fever vaccine is expensive, and not readily available in poverty-stricken areas (Monath & Cetron, 2002). It is a concern for public health officials in Cote dââ¬â¢Ivoire when an outbreak occurred in January 2011 (Whittett, 2011). Since yellow fever occurs only in some parts of Africa and tropical South America, Staples, Gerschman and Fischer (2010) of the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) have recommended that travelers to these areas get the vaccine. In African nations besieged by economic instability and political turmoil, the disease has brought untold hardship and indescribable misery to its citizens. It is sad to note that children below the age of fifteen are most often infected with the disease. The United Nations Childenââ¬â¢s Fund (UNICEF), World Health Organization (WHO), and the World Bank have joined together to ensure that 33 African countries add the vaccine to its routine vaccination programs. These organizations have shown studies that the vaccine would be cost-effective (Global Alliance for Vaccine and Immunizations, 2005). As pointed out, funding for the vaccine is a major problem and concern for these poverty-stricken economies. The WHO (2010) is launching an appeal to raise $30 million dollars to secure the vaccine stockpile for 2011 to 2015 for all 33 African countries. The Global Fund to Fight AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria (GFATM) is an international financial organization that is completely funded by the worldââ¬â¢s developed nations. The organization invests the worldââ¬â¢s money for interventions against AIDS, TB and malaria. To date, it has committed US$ 21.7 billion in 150 countries to support large-scale prevention, treatment and care programs against the three diseases (The Global Fund, 2011). In Southern Africa, the Global fund allocated $2.
Thursday, July 18, 2019
IP addressing scenario Essay
When is it worth setting up a DHCP server for your office and how many computers would you say is the minimum amount that really justifies the work of setting up the server? Letââ¬â¢s first explore what DHCP is so we can understand what it does and can accurately answer the question at hand. DHCP stands for Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol and provides a mechanism for conveniently assigning network addresses and other network configuration parameters to a system upon request, usually when it is first bootstrapped or attached to the network. This is what allows you to manage the IP address of any given computer on your network from one location. Being that we ran out of addresses for IPv4 and are now basically only using borrowed addresses Maintaining the IP address for a network individually would be a huge chore for any network professional. Thankfully DHCP was invented making our job a little easier. Now the question is when is it worth setting up a DHCP server? In my opinion that would be, with anything larger than 2 computers. I am going to want to be able to manage the computers on my network from one location, my location. I am not going to want to have to get up from my desk, interrupting my current task to configure your IP address while making sure the IP address I am assigning isnââ¬â¢t a duplicate. This basically comes down to how much work you want to do as a network manager. Do you want to continually update and configure computers, at each individual desk, every time their IP address is released, or anytime you need to add computers to your office, or do you want to be able to do it from the comfort of your own computer? For me, I would be ok with 2 computers to maintain but any more then that and I am going to want the DHCP server set up.
Counterfactual Thinking Essay
The acquire of tribulation arguably relies on a multifaceted, contrary to fact compendium of 2 previously come-at-able effect. An historic nous to cipher is at what eld these conditional emotions develop, and what enables these responses to carry on. Previous look into proposes that affliction emerges at around 4 age quondam(a), marginally earlier than more than youthful studies conducted by Guttentag and Ferrell, who suggest that the love of repent occurs relatively modern in peasant increase. The results of these studies contend that concord, or else than scarce experiencing contrary to fact emotions relies heavily on a nestlings ability to simultaneously expect throw realities, and that a re information of differing outcomes is a necessary, rather than sufficient component of the tuition of tribulation. These findings accumu belated and extend previous research, and salute that the ripening of counterf literal gaugeing in sisterren is p ositively correlated with a compound cognitive processing of cardinal deputy realities.The bonk of atone and relief atomic soma 18 conditional emotions based on a comparison of reality with a smash, swap(a) situation. counterfactual emotions argon considered to perform all-important(prenominal) unrestrained regulatory functions, and require excess complex cognitive processing than more basic emotions much(prenominal) as anger, consternation or happiness. They require us to consider dual possibilities (Byrne, 2002) in which both outcomes were come-at-able at some point in the past. The ability to experience emotions such as mourning isbelieved to play an important routine in ratiocination-making by-line the offshoot into adulthood. world-shattering differences however, exist amid when children are theme to first experience regret.It is arguable that childrens comprehending of regret develops relatively late due to the complex nature of not merely c everyp lace uping conditional idea (Guttentag and Ferrell, 2004), which requires an appellation and comparison of twain equally possible, alternate actions. If children are unable to generate these comparisons, they are unable to experience the emotion of regret. elfin research has been done on the cognitive processes behind the emergence of regret in young children, and thus many apparent motions cool off exist as to why the experience of contrary to fact mentation develops relatively late in puerility. Many inconsistencies exist in the theoretical pinchs of regret, and subsequently further research is required in govern to scale these age-related discrepancies.Counterfactual opinion refers to an ability to think most what could ready been had an pick decision been made or had the outcome been polar (Roese, 1991). It is within the intriguing paradigm that the current research into the experience of regret takes place. youthful findings have shed further agility into t he schooling of regret during the early on familys of childhood. Beck et al (2006) proposed the theoretical perspective that counterfactual emotions develop relatively late because it requires more complex cognitive processing to carry both possible outcomes, as unlike to recognizing basic emotions of happiness and sadness. This perspective is widely concord upon, however theories differ in the age at which the emotion of regret actually emerges. Daniel Weisberg (2001) located the emergence of regret at about 4 eld, however Guttentag and Ferrell (2004) speculated that it was not until children are 6 or 7 years old that they are able to simultaneously address counterfactual and actual situations. further research however, has revealed that within the emergence of counterfactual thinking, is a government note between experiencing and cerebrate about regret.The last mentioned involves a reflection on the cerebrate behind the emotion, i.e. _why_ does the child olfactory perception prominent that he/she picked box A considering nothing, when he/she could have picked box B, containing the chocolate. Experiencing regret however, involves a comparisonof reality with a better, alternative outcome. Given that it is a vexed task to simultaneously comprehend two equally plausible realities, it must be even more difficult to appreciation the reasoning behind _why_ this olfactory modalitys bad. Interestingly, although Guttentag and Ferrell (2004) located the experience of regret early in childhood, they contendd that it wasnt until later in life around 7 years old that a child was able to demonstrate _why_ an alternative reality might affect the emotional reaction to the actual outcome. Guttentag and Ferrell (2004) suggested that children less than 5 or 6 years old cannot generate a comparison between a real and counterfactual reality. tally to this perspective, the comparison between two previously possible outcomes is critical. In 2009, Beck and C rilly adapted this possibleness, and hypothesized that an inability to compare the two worlds limits childrens thinking about regret. (Beck, & Crilly 2009).Beck, Robinson, Carroll and Apperly (2006) proposed a similar perspective, competition that it wasnt until children were 5 or 6 years old that counterfactual and actual events were two equally plausible events. Studies conducted following this proposal revealed corresponding results. infantren between the ages of 3 and 6 were asked an readable and a closed in(p) question regarding the pathway chosen by a toy mouse. Children aged 3 found it difficult to correctly termination the question what if he had gone the opposite way, where would he be? as opposed to the simpler could he have gone anyplace else? Comparatively, children aged 6 and older performed importantly better, with 85% answering the open question correctly. Beck et al reasoned that regret could not be felt if the child had no understanding of the possibility o f a counterfactual reality replacing the actual reality. In 2009, Beck and Crilly replicated these studies, but alternatively used an open question and a regret question to measure childrens ability to comprehend regret.The results indicated that, contrary to Beck et al, it is in fact not sufficient to simply distinguish two counterfactual possibilities in sound out for children to name regret. The study gave more cant over to Guttentag and Ferrells 2004 claim that the comparison of two alternate realities is critical in the development of regret. Beck and Crilly (2009) went on to suggest that perhaps understanding two counterfactual realities was a necessary rather than sufficient developmental goal in the cognitive processing of regret. In 2003, Germanand Nichols proposed that the experience of counterfactual thinking could occur as early as 4 years of age. In their study, a free radical of 3 year olds were given stories that twisting two possible outcomes. When given the op pose alternative, the children were asked whether the character in the story would feel felicitous or sad. German and Nichols describe that children answered more than two thirds of the simple counterfactual questions correctly.This data was used to theorize that children as young as 3 could comprehend basic counterfactual realities, and thus indicated the early emergence of regret. Although much discrepancy exists as the to the exact age at which regret flummoxs to emerge, the view that counterfactual thinking develops much earlier than previously thought has induce widely accepted amongst both cognitive and developmental psychologists. However, evidence exists that contradicts this perspective. Beck et al argue that the studies used by German and Nichols contain a number of false positives.Further research has suggested that the supposed counterfactual thinking demonstrated in the 3 year olds tested, could simply be use of the childs world(a) knowledge, and that the questions used were excessively simple to reliably indicate an experience of regret. Questions used in the experiment by German and Nichols arguably lead to answers that could be answered using the childs general knowledge, such as recognizing that squashed flowers postulate people unhappy, and unsquashed flowers make people happy (Beck, Robison, Carroll, & Apperly 2006). Where German and Nichols whitethorn have revealed an emergence of counterfactual thinking may simply have been the childs air of past experience.The most widely agreed upon theory of regret in childhood appears to be ability to not only distinguish two previously possible realities, but to excessively compare them in order to come to an emotional understanding. Theorists including Guttentag and Ferrell (2004), and Beck and Crilly (2009) argue that a distinction must be made between simply experiencing a counterfactual emotion, and understanding _why_ someone may feel unhappy when comparing the actual reality with a cou nterfactual world. This theory is based on the premise that counterfactual thinking is a complex cognitive process, requiring a multifaceted understanding of two dual possibilities.Research on counterfactual thinking in childhood also suggests children mayexperience regret as early as 4 years old, however this view has generated much disapproval and requires further research in order to rule out experimental limitations, such as small research groups and over generalized questions. Future research may focus on overcoming these limitations in order to generate reliable data. Compiling the findings from these and rising studies will enable researchers to form a much clearer of picture of exactly when children not only experience, but also understand the emotion of regret, and what cognitive processes underpin this development. In conclusion, research examining childrens regret has focused on the criticality of the moment children begin to comprehend two dual realities, and feel rem orse after choosing one outcome over another. Current studies lend weight to the complex nature of the role of cognition in emotional experiences, and this data, taken in conjunction with earlier studies, suggests a number of age-related stepping stones are implicated in the development of counterfactual thinking.REFERENCE LISTBeck, R. S., & Crilly, M. (2009) Is understanding regret dependent on developments in counterfactual thinking? _British Journal of developmental Psychology_. 27, 505-510.Beck, R. S., Riggs, J. K., & Burns, P. (2001) Multiple developments in counterfactual thinking. _ discernment Counterfactuals, Understanding Causation_. 2-21.Beck, S. R., Riggs, J. K., & Gorniak, L. S. (2009) The effect of casual length on counterfactual conditioning reasoning. _British Journal of developmental Psychology_. inside 10.1348/026151009X450836.Beck, S. R., Robinson, E. J., Carroll, D. J., & Apperly, I. A. (2006) Childrens thinking about counterfactuals and future hypotheticals as p ossibilities. _Child Development._ 77, 413-426.Burns, P., Riggs, J. K., & Beck, R. S. (2012) Executive authorization and theexperience of regret. _Journal of observational Child Psychology_. 111(3), 501-515. Doi 10.1016/j.jecp.2011.10.003.Brocki, K. C., & Bohlin, G. (2004) Executive functions in children aged 6-13 A dimensional and developmental study. _Developmental Neuropsychology_. 26, 571-593.Diamond, A. (2006) The early development of executive functions. _Lifespan Cognition Mechanisms of Change_, Oxford University Press, Oxford, UK. 70-95.Ferrel, J. M., Guttentag, R. E., Gredlein, J. M. (2009) Childrens understanding of counterfactual emotions progress differences, individual differences, and the effects of counterfactual-information salience. _British Journal of Developmental Psychology_. 27, 569-585.Guttentag, R. E., Ferrell, J. (2004) Reality compared with its alternatives Age differences in judgments of regret and relief. _Developmental Psychology_. 40, 764-775.Mitchell , P., Riggs, K. J. (2000) Childrens reasoning and the mind. _Psychology Press_. 121-147.OConnor, E. (2011) The emergence of regret in childhood. _Pediatrics for Parents_. 27, 11-12.OConnor, E., McCormack, T., & Feeney, A. (2012). The development of regret. _Journal of Experimental Child Psychology,_ 111, 120-127. Doi 10.1016/j.jecp.2011.07.002.Roese, N. J. (1997) Counterfactaul thinking. _Psychological Bulletin_. 121, 133-148.Rafetseder, E., & Perner, J. (2011) When the alternative would have been better Counterfactual reasoning and the emergence of regret. _Cognition and Emotion_, 26, 800-819.Rafetseder, E., Schwitalla, M., & Perner, J. (2012) Counterfactual reasoning From childhood to adulthood. Journal of Experimental Child Psychology. 114(3), 389-404. Doi 10.1016/j.jecp.2012.10.010.Weisberg, D. P. (2011) Childrens thinking about regret and relief. _University of Birmingham (thesis)_. 56-83.Weisberg, D. P., & Beck, S. R. (2010) Childrens thinking about their own and others regret and relief. _Journal of Experimental Child Psychology_. 106, 184-191.Weisberg, D. P., & Beck, S. R. (2011) The development of childrens regret and relief. _Cognition and Emotion._ 26, 820-835. van Duijvenvoorder, K. C. A., Hulzenga, M. H., & Jansen, R. J. (2013) What is and what could have been Experiencing regret and relief across childhood. _Cognition and Emotion_, 28, 926-935.Zeelenberg, M., Van Dkik, W. W., Manstead, A. S. R., & van der Pligt, J. (1998) The experience of regret and disappointment. _Cognition and Emotion_, 12, 221-230.
Wednesday, July 17, 2019
Mutations Essy
If these brokers mutate, then one is seeed as having a hereditary risk of breast and ovarian pubic louse. The BRCAI and BRCA2 mutation means that a charr has an amplificationd risk of breast and/or ovarian dropcer before menopause. some dates close family members were diagnosed with cancer at an previous(predicate) age also. These harmful mutations also increase the risk of cervical, colon, uterine. stomach, melanoma and gallbladder cancer. on that point ar no standard criteria for who should be shielded for the BRCA gene mutation, but if you nonplus family members who have had cancer, It is a deflnlte clue.If any of these family members were boyish before menopause, it is a vertical mood to think ab come forth being scrutiny for the ene. It would be a very good idea to ask the family member to test for the BRCA mutation, so that the rest of the family members would sock up of time also. According the National crab louse Institute, the risk of having the mutation is higher if you are of Ashkenazlc Jewish descent. If this Is the case, pay attenuon to If a put forward or sibling has been diagnosed with cancer.Also, find out if any grandparents, half- siblings, nieces or nephews had cancer. Pay especial(a) attention to relatives that are male, and whether the relative had cancer in both breasts (bilateral breast cancer,) nd a combination of two or more first or imprimatur degree relatives diagnosed with ovarian cancer, no reckon what their age was when diagnosed. If you have been diagnosed with the BRCAI or BRCA2 gene mutation, you are really in sine qua non of support from family and friends.Some people turn to the content advocacy group called Bright Pink. This arranging is specifically geared to young women at high risk of breast and ovarian cancer. Many young women are ameliorate to find out that they are non the only one suffering alone. Having a list of Advocacy groups is lifesaving because once you know you understand what you must do. The protocol for women with the BRCA mutations is to do nothing until the age of 25 and by and by that begin a screening government between mammograms, ultrasound and a magnetic resonance imaging every six months.At age 35 a woman is advised to consider a double mastectomy followed by a complete oophorectomy (removal of one or both ovaries) at age 40. The solution to the BRCAI and BRCA2 gene mutations is hard to do, but you can still live your life later on having a mastectomy and an oophorectomy. Most women are do bearing and nursing their children by the time they are in their mid-30s. Mothers then requisite to be round to raise their children, they loss to be around to see their grandchildren innate(p) and they want to live their life with their mate.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)